November 20, 2012

tutorial: back-to-school pant

Bringing home a tutorial I posted over on MellySews this summer, as part of her Sew in Tune Series. I didn't have to pick a song for this series, because Wheels on the Bus was the only option. To say my almost three year old loves this song is simply an understatement. Obsessed might be a better suited adjective, an ongoing almost two year infatuation. When he was barely one he would wave his little finger in the air in a circular motion wanting us to sing it to him. Pretty sure there is not a day in the last almost two years that I haven't sung this song, usually multiple times in a row!

So here is an outfit that was inspired by the Wheels on the Bus obsession. 
These pants are perfect for the time of year, allowing for cropped pants in the last weeks of summer and then longer pants as we roll into fall. The t-shirt was made using the Raglan Tee Pattern from Sewing for Boys. The vest was a random request from Mae, who loves the alligator print of the lining. You can read more about the vest HERE
To make your own back-to-school pants start by choosing your favorite pant pattern. I chose to use the flat front pant pattern from Dana of Made. I had created another pair of pants to use for this tutorial from a recent Ottobre issue but the legs were skinny, too skinny for any kind of cuff. So when choosing a pant pattern make sure the leg opening has plenty of room for cuffs.

Shorten pant pattern piece to account for no hem needed.  I use a two inch hem for these pants so I cut off 1 1/2  inches, leaving a half inch for the cuff seam.
Use pant pattern piece to cut out cuffs. I decided to make mine 8 inches tall but depending on the size of your child you may need a different height. Remember there will be an inch lost to seam allowances.
Place cuffs on legs, right sides together, and sew 1/2 inch seam. 
Fold down top of cuff 1/2 inch and press. 
Turn cuff to inside of pant leg and press. Press so that the cuff fabric is completely hidden by the pant leg.
Repeat steps above for other three legs of pant. 

Now you should be able to put pant together per your pant pattern. A couple things:

When sewing legs together make sure seam allowance gets sewn facing the pant leg. 
Once pants are complete, blind stitch the cuff to inside of pant. 

Cut out two rectangles for each tab. Mine were 1 3/4 x 4 1/2 inches. Just make sure they are shorter than the height of the cuff so they won't hang out the bottom of the pant.
Sew 1/4 inch seam around three sides.
Clip corners and turn right side out. 
Top stitch three sides and serge last side. 
Sew button hole. 
Pin tab to inside of pant leg, above cuff, and sew in place.
Sew button on outside of pant leg. I sewed the button right on top of where I sewed the tab to the pant. This helps hide the stitching under the button.
Button the tab and you have cropped pants to enjoy for the last weeks of summer. Or wear them long for back-to-school pants come this fall.

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